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Again, there are so many different kinds of reels out there. And many are designed for a certain type of fish or a certain method of fishing. But like rods, these designs can cross over to other methods. Many times a reel will be ideal for a completely different kind of fishing from what it was designed for. So knowing what you need to do with the reel will let you narrow down your search to find the ideal reel for YOU. In the end you are the one holding the weaponry to be used against your prey. So let's, again, break these questions down into sections to understand what they mean to you.

Spinning or casting?

Self explanatory right? If you don't know how to cast a casting reel, then you should get a spinning reel, right? Wrong. Not in all cases. Lets discuss the differences between these reels.

First there is the spinning reel. Developed, I believe, by Mitchell. The spinning reel is the beginner fisherman's friend, yet in many cases is the ideal equipment for certain fishing. Often referred to as "coffee grinders" because of their resemblance to one with the spinning bail section winding the line while cranking on the handle. There are three main types, categorized by the location of their drag or drags. The first type is the rear drag (see fig 1a below). On this particular style the adjustment knob for the drag setting is on the rear of the reel. The second type is the front drag (fig 1b), which, you guessed it, has the drag adjustment on the front of the reel. It is actually integrated into the spool. Having the drag system here brings it close to the actual moving part of the reel as line is being paid out against the drag. This results in a smoother drag. Also by having it there, it allows for larger and more drag washers to be used. The increased surface area greatly contributes to the smoothness of the drag while line is being paid out. The third type of spinning reel is, believe it or not, a dual drag spinning reel (fig 1c). This type of spinning reel actually has TWO sets of drag mechanisms: one in front and one in back. These reels are referred to as "bait feeder" type spinning reels. The purpose of having two sets of drags is to avoid having the bail open in order to let a live fish swim freely. It is also used as an alarm, much like the clicker on a conventional reel, when fishing with sitting bait. The rear drag is usually set very light. When line is being taken out by a fish striking the bait, a flip of a switch or a turn of the handle (depending on the brand of the reel) will disengage the rear drag and engage the front drag. This drag is often referred to as the "fighting drag" for obvious reasons.

(fig 1) From left to right, shown are examples of a) a rear drag spinning reel, b) a front drag spinning reel, c) and a dual drag spinning reel. The arrows show where the adjustments on drag pressure are made. The red arrow on fig 1c shows the lever that is used to switch from one drag mechanism to another on a dual drag spinning reel.

Next, we have the casting reels. There are also several types of casting reels. Some will suit certain methods of fishing, while some will serve personal preferences. But generally the casting reels are the types that have the spool winding the line parallel with the direction that it is paid out, as compared to the spinning reel which has the spool winding the line perpendicularly to the line being paid out. One type of casting reel is the bait caster (see fig 2a and 2b below), which is primarily used for casting lures. These come in two kinds, the low profile and the round bait casters. Whichever one you chose is up to you. But they each have their own advantages and characteristics. A low profile bait caster will fit nicely in your hand, has an open top which gives easy access to clear out a backlash (birds nest, line tangle, bloody mess, etc), and in some cases just looks cool hehehe. A round bait caster will generally have more drag washers (which can translate to smoother drag and more power), more line capacity (because of the availability of bigger sizes), and usually made with a durable all (or mostly) metal construction. Another type of casting reel is the conventional (fig 2c and 2d), which is usually of the bigger saltwater variety. But that doesn't mean that they don't have their place in some freshwater applications. Some may come with the level-wind (the part that guides the line evenly onto the spool for you) and some may not. Some are designed to be cast, while some are not. Some are designed to drop a bait straight down from a boat either to sink to the bottom by use of weight, or to just let a live bait fish swim away and do its own thing. But again, just because it was not meant to be cast, doesn't mean that the angler should not cast with it.

(fig 2) Shown, left to right, are examples of a) the low profile bait caster, b) the round bait caster, c) non-level wind conventional, d) and level wind conventional reels. Note the differences in structure each has due to the shape of the overall reel or whether it has a level wind or not.

So what should you choose? Well that all depends on all the answers to the rest of the questions you need to ask yourself. To a certain point it does come down to the preference of the angler, but if you leave it solely to your ability to cast either one, you may be missing out on the ideal tackle for the type of fishing you plan to use it for.

Saltwater or freshwater?

The main concern here is corrosion, or rust. But reels designed for freshwater can be used in saltwater, as long as there is no magnesium (Mg on the periodic table of elements) on it. So how do you know your reel doesn't have magnesium? Trust me you will know. Reel manufacturers don't just use magnesium on any reel. And these reels are generally quite expensive. Why don't you want to use magnesium around saltwater? Because it is a HIGHLY corrosive metal when in contact with the saltwater. Not a good thing when you pay the money for a reel that is made with magnesium parts. Why is it on some reels then? Two words: light weight. But other than that, generally there is no reason a freshwater reel cant be used in saltwater. How long it lasts depends on the quality of the reel and the diligence of the angler to keep up with the constant needed maintenance (check out the reel maintenance tips) to keep things in good working order. Reels designed for saltwater will have things like anodized aluminum parts, anti-rust bearings, and special coatings to avoid corrosion. Reels designed for saltwater use can be used in fresh water as well (ie. The Daiwa SL30SH is commonly used while fishing for sturgeon and big catfish).

To level-wind or not to level-wind?

That is the question. Okay enough of the bootleg Shakespeare. This question is in reference to conventional reels only. Should you be looking for a level-wind on your reel? Depending on the type of fish you are targeting, the type of bait you are casting, or just the general local preference you may or may not need a level-wind on your reel. Each has its ups and downs. So it is important to know whether you will need to have a level-wind depending on the type of fishing you are going to be doing. A reel of this size with a level-wind will have the line guide following the line as it is either laid on the spool or as it comes off the spool. This is done by actually connecting the movement of the line guide to the spool by gears. Whenever the spool rotates, the line guide will follow. What's so bad about this? Having the level-wind correspond to the spool's rotation means that it must be directly connected to the spool by gears, and this can mean shorter casts. Because that line winder's movement is dependent on how much the spool is rotating, it is robbing some of the kinetic energy from the spool as it revolves during a cast. Not having a level-wind on the reel can sometimes alleviate that problem (depending on the construction of the reel and the quality of its bearings). Since there are no hidden gears involved, inhibiting the free revolution of the spool, you can generally achieve further casting distances with a non-level-wind reel. The bad news is you will have to guide the line onto the reel yourself. Doing this efficiently will take practice. If you forget to guide the line onto the spool in an even fashion, you will end up with a pile up of line in one area (usually the center) of the spool.

Bait or lure?

What kind of bait are you using - live or dead? What kind of lure are you using? Things to consider are the weight of the sinkers or lures you plan on fishing with. You will want to match this to the size of line that you are using. It would not be efficient to attempt to throw a 6oz sinker with 8lb line. But throwing that 6oz sinker using 30lb line is very feasible. But would you try to do it with a low profile bait caster or a saltwater class conventional reel? The conventional reel, of course. Match the lure to the line to the reel to the rod and you will be in pretty good standing.

What size and type of line will you be using?

Size of line, as stated previously, is important in choosing the right reel. You are not going to try to put 30lbs monofilament (nylon) line on a trout reel, because it is not rated for it. The drag mechanism is just not strong enough to set accordingly. And the line capacity will be too short for efficient casting distance. But then there are the super lines like braids, Dacron, spectra, etc. These lines are very small in diameter considering their breaking strength, resulting in a higher possible line capacity. For example, a bait casting reel designed for freshwater bass fishing may be able to hold 100 yards of 20lb monofilament line. 20lb spectra has a diameter similar to that of 8lb monofilament, so that same reel will be able to hold more than twice the amount of line of the same strength rating. If you already know what size line you would like to be fishing with, then you should look on the packaging or body of the reel for the line capacity that the reel is rated for. You can use less however. That will not hurt, as long as you can still set the drag accordingly. But going over that limit can actually hurt the reel. If the drag system is set according to a line strength that is higher than what the reel is rated for, it can cause undue stress to certain parts of the reel, resulting in failure.

What kind of gear ratio do you need?

Different types of fishing will require different cranking speeds either for proper presentation of the bait, or for powerful leverage during cranking. Bottom fishing in the ocean in about 200ft of water for fish like rock cod requires a slower gear ratio, which translates to cranking power. When throwing a 6oz iron lure to surface feeding tuna or jacks, it is better to use a reel with a faster gear ratio to keep the lure moving and on the surface. Presentation of a crank bait can also be affected by the gear ratio. Sometimes a slower presentation is needed, so a slower gear ratio on your bait caster or spinning reel will benefit. But sometimes a fast moving presentation is needed so a higher gear ratio will make it easier to reach the effective speed.

You should also take note of the diameter of the spool on the reel that you are interested. Sometimes a reel manufacturer will actually say how much line will be retrieved per handle crank. But you can actually figure this out if you have a good background in math, and end up with a fairly close number, by finding the circumference of the spool and multiplying it by the first number in the gear ratio. But without having to go through all those computations, eye-balling the size of the spool can give you a pretty good idea that a conventional reel with a 5:1 gear ratio will still have a faster retrieve than a bait caster with a 6:1 gear ratio.

What type of fish will you be targeting?

This is a very important question to ask yourself. You will want to make sure that the reel that you are buying is strong enough for the particular targeted fish. But you also don't want to overdo it. Do research on the fish you are going after. Find out how hard they fight. Do research on the drag systems and overall construction of the reels you are interested in and find out if they can handle the pressure of that fish. It just would not be efficient to fish for marlin with a freshwater bait caster, or try to target crappie with a saltwater conventional reel.

Where will you be fishing from?

Much of this question can be answered by the previous question - what type of fish will you be targeting? But when shopping for a reel the location that you are fishing from can influence which reel you should go with. Obviously you will be able to target different fish from a boat than from shore (with exceptions depending on location ie marlin from the rocks of New Zealand). But other factors can come into play. Depending on how well you keep an eye on your gear or how much you baby your reel, you might not want to take a $400 reel to fish off the rocks of a saltwater jetty due to the dangerous and destructive nature of hiking through the large rock pile and the slipperiness of the surfaces when wet. Slipping and smacking that beautiful reel on the rocks can be heartbreaking. Surf fishing on a beach can also be hazardous because of the amount of sand that can enter the innards of the reel, causing eventual failure. Certain reels are more ideal for these situations, and are no necessarily more expensive, but get the job done and can handle the abuse. Again, you must do your own research on the reels that you are interested in to figure out which reel will suit your personal preferences (ie durability, price, looks, etc). Another example is when fishing from a kayak or float tube. Being so close to the water and sometimes even having to navigate through surf, your gear will be more exposed to the elements. Saltwater getting on the reel, then having the sun dry it out can have quick undesirable effects on your reel. Some reels excel at keeping water out of the innards and resisting corrosion, while others might be good for only a few trips before maintenance is needed, or a new reel must be purchased to replace it.

What do all those terms on the box mean?

There may be other terms, but generally these are what you will see either on the box or on the reel itself.

Number of bearings: generally the more bearings you have, the smoother the reel is. By 'smooth' I mean how little resistance you feel when cranking. But keep in mind that more bearings does not necessarily mean that the reel is smoother than others with less. Let's take two Daiwa reels for example. The Daiwa Regal-Z spinning reel only has four bearings, while the Daiwa Samurai 7i has seven bearings. But because of the tighter tolerances used in design and manufacturing for the Regal, and the use of better quality bearings, the Regal is a much smoother reel than the Samurai. So seeing that a reel has more bearings should not be the deciding factor in picking out your reel. Actually getting your hands on it and cranking it, preferably side by side with other reels that you are interested in, is the only way to see which reel is smoothest. There is also a down side to having more bearings. Bearings are made of metal, and metal is, of course, heavier than plastic. In many cases where a reel uses less bearings, a plastic bushing is used. To provide smoother operation a higher class reel may have a bearing in its place. One bearing in place of one bushing is an almost insignificant increase in overall reel weight. But additional bearings placed in strategic areas that usually don't even have a plastic bushing will add more weight to the reel. You should decide for yourself whether this is important to you.

Gear ratio: This is the amount of revolutions the spool will make (casting reels) or the line winder (spinning reels) for each full crank of the handle. For example, when you crank the handle of a casting reel one full revolution with a 6.1:1 gear ratio, the spool will revolve 6.1 times. If you crank the handle of a spinning reel one full revolution with a 5.2:1 gear ratio, the line winder (the part that spins around the spool when you crank) will rotate around the spool 5.2 times.

Anti-reverse bearing: Many reels nowadays come with this as a standard feature. What is means, is that when you crank the handle, it doesn't slip backwards on you. Depending on the quality of the anti-reverse bearing, some will have less 'play', if you will, than others. Tighter tolerances in the anti-reverse bearing provides a solid hook set because of no line being let out from excessive play. But you must also understand that these bearings are not meant to withstand the pressure of fishing heavy line for large, hard running fish. So it is not going to be seen on most large, offshore saltwater reels. Instead, there will be an anti-reverse gear with a pawl that restricts excessive backward movement. Some reels will actually use both the anti-reverse bearing AND the gear. This gives the anger the crisp handle movement, solid hook sets, and the security of the gear to stop backward movement if the bearing cannot handle the strain.

Variable cast braking systems: The most common type is the kind similar to that of the Shimano VBS (variable brake system). What this entails is a number of casting brakes (usually six) that can be turned on or off, which assist in casting a bait casting or conventional reel, avoiding the dreaded backlash. The more brakes you turn on, the more brakes you will get as you cast. The way this works, is when you cast, the spool rotates very fast. The law of centrifugal force (for you physics buffs) causes the brakes (when turned on) to push outward and make contact with a surface that surrounds them. Much like a brake drum on a car. The faster the spool rotates, the more pressure the brakes will have against the 'drum' surface. The more brakes you have turned on, the more braking will occur due to more surface friction on the drum surface. Every angler, depending on their casting skill, will prefer a different amount of brakes to be turned on for optimal distance and backlash control.

The other type of cast braking system is the magnetic cast control. The mechanics behind this is difficult to understand unless you have some background in physics. But basically it entails creating what is called an eddy current by use of a non-magnetic metal revolving around a magnet (ie aluminum). In the case of a fishing reel, the spool is the one made of the non-magnetic metal and a magnet is positioned on the side plate (usually at an adjustable distance from the spool). The faster the spool revolves around the magnet, the stronger the eddy current gets. It is this eddy current that causes the braking effect to the spool. As the spool slows down, the eddy current weakens. As I stated earlier, the distance that the magnet is from the spool is usually adjustable. The closer the magnet is to the spool, the stronger it will be at slower revolutions. Just like in the VBS or similar systems, every angler will have to adjust this to adapt to their casting skill.

Line capacity: This is a general statement on how much monofilament line a certain reel will hold. But with the varying diameters of available lines, this number can be expected to be off by several yards. These numbers will also tell you what strength line the reel is rated to handle without either stressing parts or making it difficult to use. When you see the following: lb./(yds) 8/(175) 10/(155) 12(130), it tells you a few things. One is that when using 8lb test mono line you can put about 175 yards of line on the spool, and with 10lb test line, well you get the picture. It also tells you that the reel is rated for 8-12lb line, so trying to put 30lb monofilament on it is not only going to give you an inadequate amount of line for many applications, but it can make it difficult to cast properly, and can damage the reel due to stress from drag settings too tight (if you set the drag at the proper setting for 30lb test line).

What is your budget?

Ahhhh again probably the most important factor on most people's minds when shopping for their new reel. In many cases, the more expensive the reel, the better the quality. But not always. There are many reel manufacturers around nowadays. And many of them make quality gear. In many cases you might be paying for the name of the manufacturer of the reel. But with some names, you are also buying excellent customer service, or extra parts availability, or even customizability. Price should not be the only issue that holds you back from purchasing a certain reel. And many cases will require you to police yourself and force your wallet back into your pocket to save up the few dollars (or whatever your currency is) extra it takes to buy what would be considered the minimum, yet still optimal, quality equipment for what you plan to use it for. Do not sell yourself short to save a few dollars if it means that you end up with something that will not perform the way you want it, or be as durable as you need it to be. Now, please take note that the last statement did not mean to save up the $400 for a super reel. But it does mean that you might want to save up the extra $20 to buy that $60 reel over the $40 reel that you know is going to fail a lot sooner.

In conclusion...

I hope I did not confuse anyone any more than they were already. But honestly, you must understand that tackle shopping is a confusing animal. Every manufacturer has their own ideas of how to rate and price their reels. And no two reels are exactly the same. You must do your own research. Visit their websites. Read their catalogs. Ask people who own the reel or reels that you are interested in. Hopefully you can even find someone that owns or has owned both (or all) of the reels that you are trying to compare. This information can be invaluable in your search, since anglers that only own one of the reels can only give you an account of what they experienced with the reel.

Posted :: 11:30 PM :: ---------------------------------------

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GPS Fish Finder

Why use GPS (Global Positioning System) to help you find fish?

• Need to know where you are on the open water?
• Need to know how fast you are travelling?
• Want to find your way back to that great, but remote, fishing spot again?
  

Use a GPS Fish Finder!
Clever fishermen have been using GPS Fish Finders for a lonf time to prepare and record fishing trails with greater accuracy on the water.

What is GPS?
The Global Positioning System (GPS) is a navigation system made up of a network of 24 satellites placed into orbit by the U.S. government. GPS works in all weather conditions, all over the world, 24 hours a day. There are no subscription fees or setup charges to use GPS.

How it works
GPS satellites circle the earth twice a day in a very precise orbit and transmit signal information to earth. Using triangulation, these signals can be used to calculate the user's exact location. A GPS receiver must be locked on to the signal of at least three satellites to calculate a 2D position (latitude and longitude) and track movement. Once the user's position has been determined, the GPS unit can use other satellites to calculate other information, such as speed, bearing, track, trip distance, distance to destination, sunrise and sunset time and more.

The hard-working 12-channel Garmin GPS 12 (right) is the perfect entry level GPS fish finder for the sportsman who doesn't want to spend a bundle. A host of advanced navigation features bring innovation and performance at great value.

How accurate is GPS?
GPS receivers in today's market are extremely accurate, thanks to parallel multi-channel design. For example, new 12-channel receivers are quick to lock onto satellites when first turned on and they maintain strong locks. GPS fish finder receivers are accurate to within 15 meters on average, while newer GPS receivers with WAAS (Wide Area Augmentation System) capability can improve accuracy to less than three meters on average.

The Garmin Vista eTrex GPS fish finder (left) is one of the most popular handheld GPS systems available today. It combines a compact pocket size with a 12-channel receiver and WAAS capability to provide exceptional power to the angler.

With a GPS Fish Finder, no matter how open the seas are, you will be able to find your way home. It's easily the most accurate method of electronic navigation available to the fishing public today. Remember, however, that a GPS receiver is only a tool. Its recommended to have another method of navigation available, such as a map or chart and a compass.

Posted :: 10:06 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Fishing Boats

Fishing Boats
You and your family are heading out early in the morning for a day of fishing in your brand new fishing boat. You hit that highway that leads to the lake, excited voices echoing throughout your SUV. Your wife and kids are just as delighted with the new boat as you are and are discussing the whopper they hope to catch. You arrive at the lake, launch the runabout that contains the entire family's fishing gear and in no time at all, you are skimming across the water, every family member safely encased in a lifejacket. You just know that this is going to be a great family outing and everyone loves the new fishing boat.

A fishing boat can be anything between a canoe where you dangle basic bait over the side in a river or stream to a powerful cabin cruiser or yacht. Basically, all you need to get out onto the water is a vessel that is seaworthy. There are a large variety of fishing boats available on today's market. You can buy them at boat shows, fishing shows or dealerships. Let's look at some different types of fishing boats.


Freshwater Fishing Boats
If you enjoy fishing in freshwater rivers, lakes and streams, leave the big, powerful boats for someone else. Choose a fiberglass or aluminum boat that is lightweight and easy to transport. A bowrider, runabout, walleye boat or a boat with a small or dual console will meet all of your freshwater fishing needs. These boats are perfect for family outings.


Bass Boats
Bass boats ride low in the water and are usually very colorful and extremely fast. They can be aluminum or fiberglass and most often they are equipped with platforms in both the bow and stern for easy casting. If you've always dreamed of owning the perfect bass boat, be sure to buy one that has a trolling motor mounted on the bow. These boats are mainly used for sport fishing and tournament fishing.


Offshore Saltwater Boats
If you enjoy heading out on the open sea for a day of saltwater fishing that includes huge fish and heavy tackle, you will need a heavy boat that is dependable and can be relied on in all situations and weather. Anything less than a cuddy cabin or center console that's equipped with either twin or single outboard motors will not fit the bill. The high end of an offshore saltwater boat is a bluewater or convertible that comes complete with luxury quarters and elaborate salons. These boats should be equipped with inboard diesel engines that have maximum power.


Inshore Saltwater Boats
If you're planning to fish for tarpin, bonefish, trout and snook or redfish on tropical flats, a light boat will take you a long way. This type of boat should always be less than a 25-footer and powered by a single outboard motor. The best type of vessel for inshore saltwater fishing is a basic bay boat or flat boat. Both types of boats offer a spacious deck for casting and float well in shallow water.


Float Tubes
Float tubes are devices that allow fly anglers who don't own a boat easy access to get out onto the water. They are excellent for fishing ponds, lakes and mountain streams. Essentially a float tube is a floatation device that is equipped with a seat. The angler sits in the seat while wearing fins and kicks his way around while partially submerged. Fly fishing from float tubes can be difficult, especially for those who are using them for the first time. It definitely takes time to hone your fly casting skills from a float tube.

There are two basic types of float tubes - traditional and pontoon. Traditional float tubes are usually round and have an opening in the front or middle. Basically, these are an inner tube with built-in features for fly fishing. These float tubes can take a lot of time to maneuver because they are round in shape and cause a lot of water resistance.

The newer pontoon float tubes are much easier to use. These are equipped with two pontoons, or air chambers, one on each side of the fisherman. Pontoon float tubes have less water resistance and offer far less drag than traditional ones because the pontoons are V-shaped and move through the water almost effortlessly.

If you are thinking of purchasing a fishing boat, shop around, talk to anglers who own their own boats and do your research to help you decide which type of boat you'd like to have. If you still can't make a choice, talk to a boat fishing guide or the owner of a fishing charter service. They will be glad to give you tips on how to choose the perfect boat for you.

Posted :: 10:04 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Fishing in Deep Sea

Deep Sea Fishing
You and your buddy toss some rain gear and a few pieces of equipment into the car and head out onto the highway to the coast for a deep sea fishing excursion. You're really excited and are looking forward to it. Deep sea fishing is done far out in the ocean. There are many deep sea fishing grounds in the world's oceans. Deep sea fishing excursions are best done by charter.

You can deep sea fish for a wide range of fish species, including cod, wolf fish, haddock, halibut, Pollock, cusk, tuna, shark, sailfish, swordfish, rockfish, marlin, dorado and wahoo. For deep sea fishing you will need very heavy equipment, including rods and reels. Reels must be able to hold up to 300 yards of line. Line should be between 12 and 30 pound-test, depending on the targeted species. Inexperienced deep sea fishing anglers should always use 30 pound-test line. Skilled anglers will find that using a 12 pound-test line presents more of a challenge. Be sure your rod, reel and line balance in size. Hook size should run between 3.0 and 6.0. Leaders should be between 10 and 15 feet long and be tied to a double line. All leaders used for deep sea fishing should be between 30 and 50 pound-test.

Live ballyhoo is a good all round bait for sailfishing. Bigger deep sea fishing baits include speedos, blue runners and googleyes, cut bait, dead bait rigs and lures, however live bait is best. The best rule of thumb for bait is to present the fish with natural prey. This is the smaller fish that the targeted species feeds upon. Sandperch, threadfin, herring, pilchards, hermit crabs, lugworms, mackerel, mussels, shrimp, squid, sandeel and mullets are all good bait for deep sea fishing. Grouper, kingfish, snapper, tuna and wahoo will all take these baits.

Never handle your bait after applying sunscreen without washing your hands with non-scented soap and water. In fact, the less you handle deep sea fishing bait, the better it is. Do not use bait that has scales missing or if there are red spots around the nose. Deep sea fishing baits are easily found around fish cleaning tables, markers, bridges and docks. If you can't find bait, watch the seabirds. They fly in tight circles and dive in spots where bait is plentiful. If pelicans dive and immediately bring up their heads, they've found herring or pilchards. Seabirds can tell you where bait can be found.
The gear you will need will depend partially on where you are deep sea fishing. No matter where your deep sea fishing excursion is, be sure to take rain gear to protect you in inclement weather. When booking your deep sea fishing excursion, be sure to ask the charter company what you should bring along. Most of them provide a list so that you will bring everything you need.

Use caution when chartering a deep sea fishing excursion. Be sure the company is in good standing and that they have the proper permits and insurance. They should have been licensed at least two years and willingly provide references. If they hesitate, continue your search for a charter that is right for you. Charter companies should provide safety equipment and be fully bondable. Don't hesitate to ask for proof of licensing, insurance and bonds. If you have trouble choosing a charter company, ask someone who has previous experience for a recommendation. This could be a family member, a friend, a neighbor or a member of your angling club.

Posted :: 3:33 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Fish Bait Recipes

Fish Bait Recipes to Make at Home

Curing Salmon Eggs
If you are fishing for large game fish, cured salmon eggs are the perfect bait. Largemouth bass, pickerel, muskellunge, salmon, lake trout and other large fish species love them. Here's how to cure salmon eggs to use as bait. When you remove the eggs from the salmon you are cleaning, keep the egg sacs, also known as skeins intact. Cover a large, flat, moveable surface with 1/4 inch of borax. Cut the egg sacs (skeins) across the membrane in sections of 3 to 4 inches. Lay the egg sac (skein) sections 1 inch apart on top of the borax. Sprinkle more borax over the top to create a light coating. Be sure all egg sacs are covered. Move the large moveable surface that the eggs are on into a sheltered area that has good air circulation all around. The eggs must not be in direct sunlight and must not get wet, so be sure they are protected from precipitation. Allow the sacs to dry for two to three days, being sure to turn them every 12 hours. Pick the egg sacs out of the borax and shake any excess off them. Place them in plastic bags or storage containers. The egg sacs are ready to use when they are completely dry and feel leathery, but flexible. If eggs are properly cured, they can be saved in the plastic bags or containers to be used on your next fishing trip.

Cheese Bait
Cheese bait can be used to catch bream, catfish, chub, and carp. In fact carp especially love cheese bait. So if you're looking to catch any of these species or a huge carp that's been lurking around your fishing hole, here's how to make your own cheese bait. Use 10 ounces (284 grams) of pie pastry and roll it flat on a cutting board or counter top. Smear the pastry with mature cheddar flavor. Add 6 ounces (170 grams) of grated mature cheddar cheese and 4 ounces (115 grams of crumbled Danish blue cheese. Make sure it's crumbled to fine grains. Fold the pastry over the cheese so it is completely covered and roll again. Continue this process until the pie pastry and the cheese are mixed thoroughly and the cheese is absorbed by the pastry. Form the paste into a large ball and knead by hand. Add ten drops of the mature cheddar flavoring to a freezer bag and place the cheese paste ball into the bag. Place in the freezer. When it is thawed, this bait has a very appealing consistency and texture, and a very powerful cheesy smell. Roll the thawed paste into cheese balls and place into a container for your next fishing trip. When you place a cheese ball onto your hook, set the hook's point into the center, cast and wait patiently for the fish to bite. Optionally you may add a few drops of red food coloring to the paste if you wish, but it isn't necessary.

Posted :: 2:08 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Fishing Without Bait

Have you ever left the dock and headed out to fish after forgetting your bait?
How many of us have ever left the dock and headed out to fish only to find you left the bait in a cooler on the dock? It's a long ride back to the dock, and at the price of fuel today, it makes it very expensive to head back and retrieve it.
I have left my bait on several occasions over the years. There were also some days when there was no bait to be found! There are some solutions to a dilemma like this. Being prepared ahead of time can allow you to fish without retrieving that bait.

I always keep several items on the boat. These are things I only remove when I do a complete cleaning, and I make sure they are stowed on the boat again before I finish. They include several Sabiki rigs in a variety of sizes, an unbreakable jar of salt-hardened shrimp pieces, and a cast net.

The Sabiki rigs are a staple item on my boat for catching live bait. The shrimp is what I use to tip my bucktail jigs, and it also can be used alone to catch small fish for bait. The cast net is, of course, the major bait catching item. I keep it stowed in a two gallon plastic bucket, always ready when a school of baitfish comes around.

Improvising also plays an important role on one of these days. I remember one trip in particular when I was growing up in Key West. We had a small skiff and outboard - an 11 hp Wizard from Western Auto - and we did a lot of trolling for barracuda. We trolled because the boat leaked so badly we could only anchor for a few minutes at a time.

The boat was tied to some mangroves in a small creek. A fishing trip entailed buying bait, usually three pounds of whole mullet, and taking all our gear to the boat.

On this particular day, we managed to leave the mullet on the counter at the bait shop. We discovered this fact after we had left the creek and run to the small islands near Sawyer Key, around which we planned to troll. With no bait, my father took his shirt and undershirt off. He tore several strips of cloth from his white undershirt. They were about ten inches long and two inches wide.

Normally we would have taken one filet from the side of a mullet and cut it in half long ways to make two strip baits. This strip bait would be placed on a tandem double hook rig, and trolled slowly behind the boat. Barracuda on the grass flats around these islands could not resist bait like this.

Today, we took the cloth strips and hooked them up just like we did the mullet baits. In short order, we had several fish in the boat. The belly of a barracuda is very nice and white, and my father did not wait very long to slice a few strip baits from the fish we had caught.

It turned out to be a good day, even "without bait" I even went to “Show and tell" at school the next Monday to tell everyone how we had caught fish on a piece of cloth!

Next time you're on the water with no bait, try a little innovation. It just might work!

Posted :: 10:02 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Not-so-Secret Fishing Spots ( 1 )

Secret fishing spots often get passed from father to son through the generations
Secret fishing spots - some call them honey holes - often get passed from father to son through generations. Of course the reality is that our secret spots probably aren't as "secret" as we think they are. We may only get to them every few weeks while other anglers visit them in between without our knowledge.

I had some LORAN numbers at one time off South Florida that I thought no one else knew. I fished the area on a number of occasions, taking care not to let anyone mark my spot. I even went so far as to pick up and move if a boat headed in my direction. Maybe you have done the same thing. Maybe you have done as I have when I saw a drifting or anchored boat with a hooked fish. I moved as close as I dared and then hit "mark" on my GPS. I would come back later and investigate the area looking for structure and live bottom.

There are, however, some fishing spots that never required a LORAN or GPS. Some were (and still are) back in Whitewater Bay in Everglades National Park. At least some of them are in small creeks that I may never again be able to fish.

I remember one in particular that saved many a trip on bad day. When the winds howled and there was no way to fish "out front" of Flamingo or in the Gulf of Mexico, this is one place we could count on to catch fish. I'll tell you exactly where it is, because as of the last rule changes in the park, it is officially now a no-entry area.

My first experience with this particular fishing hole came on a day when we had caught nothing and had reverted to some exploring. We were half way across Lake Ingram inside Cape Sable very close to the only island in the lake. Ingram is a saltwater tidal bay completely enclosed with an entry canal on each end. It’s easy to find on any map.

East Cape Canal enters the lake on the south side and Middle Cape Canal enters on the west side. Both of these canals were dug in the thirties to help in the foolish and wasted effort to drain the everglades. The tidal flow into and out of the lake has kept both canals deep and navigable over the years, although the lake itself seldom exceeds four feet in depth.

A single channel, marked with small sticks makes its way across the lake from end to end. On a good day with clear water, you simply follow the prop path that has been made by boats running the channel.

On the west end of the lake, the remnants of a concrete wall marked the entrance to Middle Cape Canal at one time. My father used to tell me stories about a man he called "Old man Brown", who, with his family, lived in a house there on the canal. He caught shrimp for a living and, according to my dad, a small seaplane used to land in the lake and pick up the shrimp he had to sell.

If you have never been in this area in the summer time, me telling you about how bad the mosquitoes are is fruitless. I can't imagine in my wildest dreams living with them. The southwest tip of Florida gets my vote for the most populated place in the world for saltwater mosquitoes. I guess it was another time and it took a different breed of individual to live there. (part 2)

Posted :: 5:05 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Not-so-Secret Fishing Spots ( 2 )

Secret fishing spots often get passed from father to son through the generations
The wall is gone now, washed away by the swift tidal currents that flood and drain the lake every six hours or so - a small piece of history that will go untold except for those of us who remember.

Half way across the lake heading west, an island sits to the north of the channel. Many of my fishing hours have been spent drifting the grass to the south of the channel for redfish. Many of my hours were also spent trying to get the boat up on a plane and in the channel after we had fished all the way to low tide.

My dad told me stories about renting a small skiff at Slagle's Ditch in the '30s and running all the way to the lake with a 5 hp air-cooled Mercury. Some of those trips meant paddling back because of motor trouble. I was always enthralled to hear him talk about those trips, and I wondered what it would have been like to have today’s equipment in those early years.

One particular day while my dad and I explored the south shore of the lake, we came upon a small creek. It was hard to see from the channel because it turned sharply at the entrance. We saw it and began idling over to it only to find the water was too shallow even at high tide.

We both eased out of the boat and pushed and pulled the boat through the shallow water, finding surprisingly deep water at the entrance to the creek. We had no depth finder - my dad would always take a rod and poke it in the water to find the depth. This small creek bottom was deeper than he could reach, so we started the engine.

It wound around to the south to a very small bay and then continued west. The mangroves hung over the water in a canopy fashion, and one or two larger trees lay across the path ahead. We made a decision to clear the way, knowing we would be here through the low tide before we could leave.

As we set up under the trees, we drifted some live shrimp under a float and allowed them to move back toward the undercut bank thirty feet behind the boat. Every time the float reached that bank, it went under as a fish took our shrimp. The take was redfish and snook in the ten-pound range. It was exciting to fight these fish in and out of the mangroves.

On many occasions when the winds howled and we could not fish any other place, we ended up in this creek. More often than not, we had to get out and push the boat into the creek. And on several occasions we had to wait an hour or two for the tide to come up far enough to get the boat out.

I mentioned earlier that I might never be able to fish this spot again. The reason is a closure of that entire area to any type of boat traffic. It seems this area is one of the last breeding areas for the American crocodile, and the National Park Service has taken steps to insure that the crocs are not encumbered, so to speak.

I remember those trips as treasures in my life and I keep those spots secret to this day. It just wouldn't seem right to let someone else take my Dad's spot.

Secret spots. We all have them. I wonder how many of us have one that we know holds fish but that we simply can't get to any longer? (part 1)

Posted :: 4:43 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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Surf Fishing Tips

Surf fishing can be extremely hard to master. You have to calculate many factors such as the wind, current, crashing waves, floating kelp, rocks and so on before you cast.

For the beginner
I suggest you start on a calm day on a sandy beach. Practice casting first until you build up your confidence. Remember that you don't have to cast very far, because the fish practically come right up on to the beach to feed on sand crabs and dead fish. Most of the time, the fish are feeding at the break line.
Go to the beach early in the morning before surfers and beach goers show up. The best days to go surfishing is when the high tide peaks in the early morning(6-7 am). The break line will not be so far from the shore when high tide peaks.
You might lose your tackle often, so I suggest that you bring plenty of gear.
You should check with your local Fish and Game Department to find out any regulations in your area. In most places, you are required to have the fishing license.

Gear and Tackle
On the contrary to what most people believe, it is not necessary to use the typical surf rod. With a 6-7 foot medium action rod and 10-15 pound test line, fishing can be more exciting and challenging. It is also practical to move from one spot to another with a shorter rod. It really depends on your casting skill. If you can't cast far enough, use a 10-12 footer.

For the reel, it's entirely your preference. Usually most anglers use spinning reels, because you can cast easily without backlash. I personally prefer convetional reels. Backlash might occur, but they cast farther.
A sand spike rodholder is necessary if you want to stay in one spot. Bring your chair and sit until some actions happen. 10-20 pound test line is ample enough to catch most fish. Use baitholder hooks since you use dead bait most of the time. Even with live sand crabs use baitholder hooks.

Baits and Rigs
The most popular bait in surf fishing is sand crabs. During the summer, you can ig them out from the wet sand and keep them in a small container while fishing. There are two kinds; hard shell and soft shell. Use soft shell to get more action. Corbina love soft shelled sand crabs.

You can also use frozen anchovy, salted anchovy, clams(sometime you find them when you dig out wet sand), shrimp and mussel. Another good choice is strips of mackerel or squid. Softer bait might come off the hook when you cast.
For the rig, I prefer a sliding sinker rig, because the sinker doesn't put any pressure on the line when the fish pulls the bait.Sometimes if the fish feels the sinker he'll drop the bait.

What You Can Catch From the Surf
Most likely you will catch perch, corbina, sting rays, bass, rock fish.
Night time anglers sometime catch bay sharks, such as leopards, soupfins, seven gills. If you intend to catch sharks, you have to use a medium to heavy action rod and a medium-sized conventional reel with 30-40 pound test line. A Penn #500 Jigmaster is a good choice.

Even though bay sharks have small teeth, they are razor sharp. Handle them with care. If you want to target catching sharks and rays from the surf, refer to my advanced technique for the surf.

Posted :: 6:51 PM :: ---------------------------------------

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Live Bait Rules - A Dilemma

What do we do when our favorite live bait is deemed illegal?
We were bottom fishing some twenty miles offshore over an artificial reef, using small live fish for bait. One of our favorite live bottom baits is a small vermillion snapper - a beeliner. Grouper and red snapper love these fish, and I have used them for years - that is up until now.

Over the horizon they came. Running in what appeared to be a confiscated drug running boat, the DNR folks headed right for us. It was a weekday and we were the only boat in site fishing the reefs. I had no idea number one that they would venture this far offshore. Being a state agency I thought their jurisdiction ended at three miles. Number two, I had no idea they were going to board my vessel!

Board they did with my permission. I suspect they would have boarded even without my permission; they were obviously exercised and looking for some thing or person. They went through every compartment in the boat looking – and obviously found nothing. It was about that time that my partner reeled up to check his bait.

We had several small fish on the bait board – ones we had used for cut bait. And Jason had a live, five-inch vermillion snapper (beeliner) on his hook. Officer friendly was not pleased!

He proceeded to tell us the bag and size limit for beeliners – a ten-inch length limit and a total of ten for the creel limit. I had about a dozen or so small beeliners in the live well and eight or ten “legal” ones in the ice chest.

I was in shock and disbelief! I have fished with live bait like this all my life and it never occurred to me that I was violating any laws.

They watched as we released all of the small beeliners form the live well, and then they headed back from whence they came. I got no warning or citation.

I still wonder about that encounter. I have talked to a number of DNR enforcement personnel and they have all told me that while technically it is a violation, they have never personally cited anyone.

So here is my dilemma – do I continue using small beeliners? Do I pitch them when a boat heads my way? Or, do I simply continue fishing the same way I have always fished?

My son fished a kingfish tournament this past weekend. On a Sabiki rig he caught some small bluefish, which he promptly placed on his trolling rigs as bait – and caught several king mackerel on them! Throwing a cast net for menhaden, he netted several small Spanish mackerel. They have been brined and frozen and are awaiting their turn to attract a wahoo or tuna this month.

No one that I have talked to has been stopped like I was that day – and no one has seen state DNR people that far offshore. So, I believe I’m safe to return to my live bait fishing. I do know that charter and party boat captains would all be hard pressed to give up their versions of small live bait!

Posted :: 9:33 PM :: ---------------------------------------

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Fishing with Live Bait

A full cooler usually means you used live bait!
If you want to catch fish, really catch fish, live bait is the only way to go. You may catch some fish on dead cut bait, but in general they will be smaller and fewer in number. We've proven this to ourselves more times than I can remember.

This past week was no exception. Heading offshore from Northeast Florida, my son Tom and his partner Jason were looking for big bottom fish. Stops at two artificial reefs relatively close in usually provides enough live bait on Sabiki rigs to last the day. This time, bait was scarce, and with only a dozen or so baits, they headed on out.

Literally every place they stopped and dropped a live bait down, they got slammed and pinned to the rail by a big fish. They caught a few more live baits, not the cigar minnows and Spanish sardines they wanted, but small live fish, and even these non-preferred baits were being eaten.

At two locations they stopped, several other boats were anchored and already fishing. As they dropped baits and drifted through the pack, they both hooked up to good fish. Every drift resulted in two hook ups while the other boats simply watched and shook their heads.

Confused and frustrated the other boats were asking what they were doing wrong. It looked to be a combination of things - form being anchored too far from the structure to having terminal tackle that would scare any fish away. But, the prime reason was the bait. They were all fishing with dead cut squid.

Now, don't get me wrong, I've caught a ton of fish on dead squid. But, when the bite is slow and you know that fish are down there, it's time to put a live bait in front of them.

All in all Tom and Jason ended up with a nice grouper, several nice snapper, and a kingfish in two hours of fishing - not a bad day!

Next time you go, take something with you that will catch some live bait. There is no better way to put fish in the boat.

Posted :: 1:36 AM :: ---------------------------------------

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